Gravel doesn't always have to come in a 50-lb. bag from a big-box store. While it's true that this is a convenient way to buy gravel and transport it home, it's not necessarily the best option for such a purchase.



For one thing, it's not very convenient. One of those bags covers only about 1-1/2 to 2 square feet, depending on the size of the gravel. That makes for a lot of lifting and loading, not to mention plenty of trips to the store. That makes it less cost-effective than it might seem at the outset. But there are options.



Pete Rose, Inc. Landscape Products has a nifty alternative. The company, in western Henrico, Virginia, has a unique bagging service that you might want to check out. This company will bag and deliver gravel in one-ton, open-topped nylon bags. One ton might seem like a tremendous amount of gravel, but in actuality, one ton of most gravels will cover an area of 100 square feet at a two-inch depth. That's an a patio area of just ten feet by ten feet, or a walkway two feet wide and fifty feet long. The bags are a convenient option for a project that requires gravel. There's very little mess, the bags can be reused to haul yard debris, leaves, etc., and the company will deliver them to your home. For details, visit this web page:

http://www.peteroseinc.com/Portals/0/NewBaggingCS2.pdf

Get Ready For Winter

Although the first day of winter is a few weeks away, the temperatures lately make it seem like it’s already here. We winterize our cars, trucks, boats and motorcycles. But too often, our plants are overlooked when it comes to winterizing. Here are a few quick tips on winterizing a couple of types of plants:


Azaleas & Rhododendrons: Cover the root area with a thick layer of mulch. If these plants are in an unprotected location and directly exposed to the elements, you can build a temporary shelter of burlap around each plant to block winter winds.


Climbing Roses: Prune only slightly in the fall. Tie the branches together and wrap in burlap. Never use plastic to wrap the branches. Build up the soil around the roots; covering with straw is optional.


Lawns: Apply fertilizer in the fall. Fall fertilizing strengthens your lawn and its roots, providing stamina for the winter months. The final mowing should be close to the ground and you should remove the clippings. Removing the clippings helps prevent fungal diseases from damaging the grass’ roots over the winter.


Perennials & Bulbs: Allow perennial plants to die down to the ground; this enables them to store energy and nutrients in their roots. (Remove dead above-ground parts to reduce risk of disease and to prevent winter pests looking for a home.) Mulch the beds. Cover bulbs located in the open by stretching plastic bird netting over the ground during the winter. It will help keep small animals away.


Container Plants: Don’t forget about the plants in containers! They are more susceptible to the ravages of winter because their roots are less hardy. The best thing to do with them is to move them into an unheated garage or shed; an outdoor site sheltered from the wind will work too, but inside is better. *Water the plants thoroughly before the soil freezes. Water during thaws too. Spraying evergreen plants’ foliage with an anti-transpirant spray will reduce loss of moisture within the plant.

*Source: http://www.hollandpark.com (Holland Park Garden Gallery)
http://www.yardener.com